What to do when there’s no doctor .........
Marylou who has work as a nurse for many years came to lead this forum. She gave us many good ideas on how to care for ourselves when we could not get to a doctor, one wasn't available or the hospitals were crowded because of an emergency.
We are used to being able to see a doctor at any time for any reason, no matter how small. Will this always be the case? Not necessarily.
There are many scenarios in which access to medical care may be restricted. You could be on your own for a few days to a few weeks. All it takes is a major natural disaster, such as a blizzard, earthquake, or flood, a sustained power outage, or a terrorist attack to disrupt routine care. Doctor’s offices and walk-in clinics will close. In a disaster with mass casualties, doctors will all be at hospitals dealing with the seriously injured.
New threats, such as biological or nuclear attacks, could cause hundreds of thousands of casualties. Unlikely? We all hope so. If one occurred, however, there may be regional or national quarantines and doctors from around the country will be sent to the affected area, causing shortages locally.
During any sustained natural or man-made disaster you may be doing things that you normally would not. Cutting or lifting firewood, cooking over an open fire, using a gasoline generator, working by flashlight, lifting sandbags, and any number of other activities may expose you to the chance of injuries or burns that you would normally not face. Improper food storage, sanitation problems, and contaminated water during a disaster can expose you to illness that you would not normally have to worry about.
Be prepared—You can’t assume that help will arrive in a crisis. Know first aid and have a family first aid kit and medicines available before disaster strikes.
Are you prepared for the many situations that could limit your availability to medical care? Many individuals and families are not. During one earthquake in southern California, people lined up outside hospitals for Band-Aids, while overworked staff struggled to deal with the seriously injured. Now is the time to prepare. You need to be able to take care of your own medical needs when no doctor is available.
The information presented here is intended to help you plan and prepare for the possibility that you might need to manage your own routine medical care and minor injuries if medical care is not available. It is not a substitute for seeking proper medical care when it is available.
In life-threatening situations, always seek medical care whether there is a disaster or not. Call 9-1-1 or your local emergency number for serious problems such as a person who is unconscious, has trouble breathing, has chest pain or pressure, is bleeding severely, is vomiting blood, has a seizure, severe headache, or slurred speech, has injuries to the head, neck, or back, has possible broken bones, or appears to have been poisoned.
Preparing for the worst
Well before a disaster strikes, you need to prepare by having the knowledge and supplies available to take care of yourself. Educate yourself in first aid and medical care by taking a class in first aid and CPR, available through the American Red Cross and other community organizations. Obtain first aid books that you can refer to, if necessary. Many first aid and home care books are available at your local bookstore or on the Internet. Several that cover a wide spectrum of injuries and illnesses include Community First Aid and Safety by the American Red Cross, the Boy Scout Handbook by the Boy Scouts of America, Wilderness 911 by Eric Weiss, M.D., and the Mayo Clinic Family Health Book.
Next, have a good first aid kit and a stock of medicines that you might need. You should have a first aid kit in every car and a larger family one at home. You can buy a ready-made kit or make one up yourself. I prefer to make my own so that I am sure it has what I need for every situation. It may be more costly, but you can be confident that you have enough of the right materials.
Several variables will influence what your kit will contain, including your medical expertise, the distance to and availability of medical care, the number of people in your family, any preexisting medical conditions of family members, and your geographic location. For example, you would want a Sawyer Extractor for snakebites if you lived in Arizona, but not if you lived in Alaska.
To make your own first aid kit, use a list from one of your books and supplement it as needed. When I do this, I make a list of problems I might need to treat and then list the materials for each. For example, you will want materials to treat bleeding and lacerations, burns, sprains and fractures, and medicines for fever, pain, vomiting, diarrhea, coughing, and rashes. Include over-the-counter medications for any other problems you may have including heartburn medication, Preparation H, or Milk of Magnesia. Also, make sure you have an ample supply of any prescription medications that you take, along with a written copy of the prescription, which would be handy if your doctor is unavailable to authorize a refill. Depending on your situation and the remoteness of your location, you may want to ask your doctor about the advisability of having some prescription antibiotics and pain medicines in your family medicine kit.
First aid supplies- this is a partial list. Store whatever you feel you may need, because you probably will need it.
Disposable gloves
Sterile gauze pads
Rolled gauze bandages
Tincture of benzoin
Steri-Strip wound closure strips
Butterfly bandages
Nonstick dressings (Telfa)
Spenco 2nd Skin
Assorted sizes of Band-Aids
Polysporin antibiotic ointment
Splint materials
Rolled elastic bandage (Ace wrap)
Triangular bandage
Adhesive tape
Ice packs
Eye wash
Dental first aid kit
Tweezers
Bandage scissors
Keep your first aid kit and medicines in a container or pack that you can easily grab in an evacuation and make sure everyone in the family knows its location.
Once you have your family medical supplies together, consider what health and sanitation problems you could be faced with in a disaster or survival situation.
Sanitation is even more important in a disaster than other times. Diseases can be spread easily so be sure to have soap to wash hands and appropriate facilities to deal with human waste.
Finally, the healthier you are when a disaster or survival situation strikes, the greater the chance that you will survive. Exercise regularly, eat well, have preventative medical and dental care, and be happy.
When disaster strikes
Now that you are prepared, what do you do if a disaster occurs? First, stay calm and make sure to account for everyone. If in an unsafe area, move to safety. Treat any injuries and comfort those around you.
Once you are safe and injuries are treated, stop and think. How bad is your situation? What risks do you face? Is there a continued threat from the disaster? Can you expect outside help? How long will you likely need to depend on yourself? What shelter, food, water, medical, and other resources do you have available? Develop a well thought out plan of action.
Include preventative and safety measures for your food, water, sanitation, health, and safety. Accidents and injuries can occur during disasters as individuals are performing activities that they are not used to doing. You do not need to complicate your already difficult situation with injuries. Try to stay as healthy as possible, avoiding illness or injuries.
The remainder of this post will give you some ideas of common medical problems that you might be faced with. Again, it is recommended you take a course in first aid and not depend solely on this post.
Managing common injuries
Lacerations: Cuts (lacerations) are one of the most common injuries and can be caused by knives, broken glass, scissors, or falls. Deep cuts can damage blood vessels and nerves.
The first step in treating a cut is to stop the bleeding. While wearing a disposable latex or nitrile glove, place several sterile gauze pads over the cut and apply pressure directly over the wound for at least five minutes. Most bleeding can be stopped this way. Sometimes pressure may need to be held for up to 30 minutes. Nasal sprays that contain blood vessel constrictors, such as NeoSynephrine or Afrin, can help stop minor bleeding. Moisten a sterile gauze pad with the spray and pack it into the wound for five minutes before removing.
Your first aid kit should include materials to treat lacerations and bleeding. Some of the materials you will want include sterile gauze pads, pressure dressings, rolled gauze bandages, wound closure strips, antibiotic ointment, and Band-Aids.
After the bleeding has stopped, clean the wound to remove bacteria, dirt, blood clot, and damaged tissue. Use a 10 to 15-ml syringe filled with water to rinse the wound. This works like a high-pressure squirt gun to clean the wound of debris. Inspect the wound to make sure all particles of dirt or dried blood are gone, as they will be a source of infection.
Some wounds need to be stitched (sutured) by a doctor to help the healing process, improve the appearance of scars, and reduce the chance of infection. A general rule of thumb is to stitch any wound over an inch long or one where the edges of the skin do not fall together. Any wounds that show bone or muscle, are large or deep, involve joints, hands, or feet, or that could leave conspicuous scars, such as those on the face, should be seen by a doctor if possible. Sutures can be purchased at Smith & Edwards, along with many other needed medical supplies.
If wounds do not need to be stitched or if medical care is not available, they can be closed with wound closure tape strips, such as Steri-Strips, or butterfly bandages. Apply a thin layer of tincture of benzoin to the skin on each side of the wound and let it dry for 30 seconds. Apply the tape to the skin on one side of the cut, gently pull the wound closed so the skin edges just touch, and attach the tape to the skin on the other side. The tape should extend about one inch on each side of the wound. Apply more strips of tape about ¼ inch apart until the entire wound is closed.
After closing the wound, place a non-adherent dressing, such as Telfa or Adaptic, over the wound to keep it clean, followed by an absorbent gauze, and, finally, an elastic bandage or rolled gauze bandage to keep the dressings in place. Check the wound daily for infection, which will present as increased pain, redness, swelling, pus, or greenish drainage from the wound. If infection develops, seek medical care since antibiotics may be necessary. Remember our classes on herbal antibiotics or essential oils that may help here also.
Strains, sprains, and fractures: Injuries to the bones, muscles, and joints are common. Sprains are stretching or tearing of ligaments that attach bones together and strains are tearing or stretching of muscles or their tendons that attach them to bones. The ankle and knee are the joints most often sprained. Muscle strains from overexertion or lifting are common, with back strains being particularly disabling.
Pain or tenderness at the site, swelling, bruising, and pain on movement of the injured area are signs of a strain or sprain. These are also present with a fractured bone and it may be difficult to distinguish between fractures and strains or sprains.
Standard treatment for any sprain or athletic injury is summarized by the acronym RICE—rest, ice, compression, and elevation. Take the stress off the injured area by resting to prevent further damage to the ligaments or muscles. Apply ice early to reduce the swelling and pain. It should be used for up to 20 minutes 3 to 4 times per day. Swelling will return once the ice is removed unless a compression wrap is used. Place padding, such as gauze or socks, over a sprained joint and wrap with an elastic bandage. It should be comfortably tight and loosened if there is increased pain, numbness, or tingling. Elevate the injured area to reduce swelling. Continue the RICE treatment for the first 72 hours. After that, tape or splint the injured area to stabilize it and prevent further injury.
Non-steroidal anti-inflammatory medications, such as ibuprofen (Motrin) 600 mg. three times a day with food, can be taken to reduce both inflammation and pain.
For sprains and fractures, splinting materials should be part of your first aid kit. There are a SAM splint, wire splint, foam-board splint, finger splints, triangular bandage, elastic bandages, and adhesive tape. Have these ready.
Bone fractures are characterized by pain, swelling, bruising, deformity, the inability to put weight on or use the injured part normally, or the grating sound of bones rubbing against each other. The injured person may have heard a snapping or popping sound at the time of the injury.
Sometimes it can be difficult to tell the difference between a fracture and sprain without an x-ray. All known or suspected fractures require medical evaluation. Unstable or displaced fractures should be stabilized with a splint by emergency medical personnel or, if not available, by first aid methods before transport to a doctor hospital.
Back injuries: Muscle strains from overexertion or lifting heavy objects are the most common cause of acute back pain. Pain can be mild or so severe that the injured person is unable to sit or stand. Generally, the pain is worsened by bending, moving, or touching the area and made better by lying flat with the knees bent or supported by a pillow.
Bed rest is the initial treatment. Have the injured person lie on their back with a pillow under the knees, or on their side with a pillow between their legs for 1 to 2 days, while taking anti-inflammatory medications such as ibuprofen 600 mg three times a day with meals. Ice packs will reduce swelling and decrease pain.
After two days, resume gentle activity as longer bed rest can slow recovery. Most people with back strains recover on their own in 2 to 4 weeks.
Ruptured (herniated) disks are ruptures of the cartilage discs in between the vertebrae of the back. Heavy lifting can cause discs to rupture and put pressure on the spinal nerves causing pain which can radiate down the buttock and leg (sciatica). The pain is worse with sitting, bending forward, coughing, and lifting the leg. Numbness or tingling of the leg may occur. Treatment is initially the same as a back strain, however the injured person should seek medical care.
Severe back pain that is not made worse with movement or change of position can be a sign of a serious abdominal problem, including a kidney stone or kidney infection. Seek medical care if possible, if not remember again the herbal helps we learned in previous classes.
Burns: Burns can be caused by heat, flames, chemicals, or by electricity. The severity of the burn depends on the temperature of the heat source, the length of time of exposure, the size of the burn, and the location on the body. First-degree burns, such as minor sunburns, injure the first layer of skin and cause redness and pain. Second-degree burns injure deeper layers of skin, causing blisters. Third-degree burns destroy the skin and burn into deeper tissue layers or muscle and are very serious. They can look charred, black, or brown and may be painless if nerve endings have been burned. When burns damage the integrity of the skin, the body loses fluid and is susceptible to infection.
The first thing to do to care for burns is to stop the burning. Put out flames on clothing and cool the burned area with large amounts of cool water for several minutes. Cover the burned area with dry, sterile dressings to help prevent infection. Don’t apply any type of ointment or burn cream as it seals in heat and does little to reduce pain. Blisters should be left unbroken to prevent infection.
Critical burns require immediate medical care. For burns that are large, involve breathing difficulty, are on the head, neck, feet, or genitals, cover more than one part of the body, or result from chemicals, explosions, or electricity. Stop the burning, cover the burned area to prevent infection, and keep the victim from becoming chilled.
Managing common illnesses
Bad Water: Drink water that you have stored and know is safe. If that is not available, you can collect rainwater, which is safe to drink without purifying. If you use water from other sources, you must purify it before drinking.
Water taken from natural sources such as rivers, streams, and lakes may be contaminated with protozoan parasites, such as Giardia and Cryptosporidium, or bacteria, such as E. coli and Salmonella. Wells that have been in flood waters may also become contaminated with these organisms. City water supplies occasionally become contaminated and there is a potential threat of terrorists attacking our water supplies.
Boiling water is an effective way to kill Giardia and other waterborne diseases. Water above 185°F (85°C) will kill all microorganisms within a few minutes. Therefore, in the time it takes water to boil at 212°F (100°C) all potential disease-producing organisms will be killed. While an excellent method of purifying water, the problem with boiling water for drinking is that it takes a long time and considerable fuel, especially if you are with a large group.
We Have a separate post on Water on this blog that goes into much more detail. Please see that post.
Medications :
Analgesics (pain medicines)
Ibuprofen
Aspirin
Tylenol
Antidiarrheal
Imodium or Lomotil
Antinausea
Pepto-Bismol
Mylanta
Poisoning-Syrup of Ipecac
Rash and itching
Benadryl tablets
Hydrocortisone cream
Cough medicine
Earache drops
Eye drops
Other over-the-counter medicines you use
Prescription medications
Herbal medicines that you know and have on hand
Iodine and chlorine products have long been used to chemically treat contaminated water both in the wilderness and in municipal water supply systems. Iodine products, such as Polar Pure and Potable Aqua work well against Giardia, the most common contaminant, but are not effective against Cryptosporidium. Chlorine based products, such as halazone tablets and liquid chlorine (unscented chlorine bleach) may be used to purify water for people with iodine allergies or restrictions, although they are less effective than iodine products in treating water infected with Giardia. Follow manufacturer recommendations for any of these products.
A convenient way to purify water is with a commercial backpacking-type water filter that is designed to catch disease-producing microorganisms. Water is pumped through a microscopic screen that filters out microorganisms of a certain size. It would be worth having one with your emergency preparedness supplies.
Drinking bacteria or parasites in contaminated water will often produce a syndrome of diarrhea, gas, and abdominal cramping, in the case of Giardia beginning about 7 to 10 days after exposure. Nausea, loss of appetite, tiredness, vomiting, and weight loss may also occur.
If you have such symptoms for over 24 hours use Antibiotics, such as Flagyl 250mg three times per day for seven days used for Giardia infections, can cure the problem.
Diarrhea: Diarrhea is frequent (more than three a day) loose stools that can be caused from viral illnesses, bacteria from bad water or food, parasites from bad water, food allergies, inflammatory bowel disease, and anxiety. Abdominal cramps, nausea, vomiting, fever, and fatigue may also be present.
No treatment may be necessary if it lasts only 1 to 2 days. Diarrhea may be serious if it lasts longer or if there are more than 10 bowel movements a day. In severe diarrhea, up to 25 quarts of water can be lost in a day, rapidly leading to dehydration.
For diarrhea lasting more than three days or when accompanied by blood or mucous in the stool, fever greater than 101°F, severe abdominal pain or distension, or dehydration, the victim needs medical care for intravenous fluids and treatment of the underlying cause. Again, in an emergency situation do what you can.
If these are not present, treat diarrhea by rehydrating the victim with water and electrolytes to replace lost salts, potassium, and bicarbonate. Oral rehydration salts containing the proper electrolytes are available commercially. Anti-diarrheal medications, such as Imodium, can reduce cramping and fluid loss. Imodium has fewer potential side effects than Lomotil. Pepto-Bismol and Kaopectate can also be used, but are less effective.
Dehydration: Dehydration is water loss greater than the amount the body needs to maintain its balance. It occurs when lost water is not adequately replaced and it decreases the ability of doing even the simplest of activities. Dehydration will also increase the chance of severe shock if an individual is injured.
Normally, the body needs 2 to 3 quarts of water a day to maintain normal balance. Sweating from heat, exercise, or work increases the amount of water loss dramatically. In conditions of heavy activity, 5 to 6 quarts (1½ gallons) or more can be needed per day.
By the time an individual is thirsty, they are already dehydrated. A 5% loss of body water, only 2.5 quarts for a 150-pound person, will cause thirst, irritability, nausea, and weakness. A 10% loss, 5 quarts for the same person, will result in headache, dizziness, inability to walk, and tingling sensations of the arms and legs. A swollen tongue, dim vision, numb sensations on the skin, and painful urination can occur with a 15% loss of water and any greater can cause death.
It is easy to forget to drink or to have inadequate water available during a crisis situation. Dehydration is largely preventable, so plan your daily water needs.
Treatment for dehydration is to replace the lost fluids. Replace fluids by drinking water, juice, lemonade, soup, decaffeinated coffee, Gatorade, or similar sports drinks.
Vomiting: Many things can cause vomiting, including food poisoning, stomach flu, viral illness, motion sickness, anxiety, pregnancy, and irritants to the stomach such as medications. Drink small amounts of clear liquid such as soup, tea, 7-Up, or diluted Gatorade. Be careful not to drink too much too soon, which will distend the stomach and cause more vomiting. Once vomiting has stopped, bland food such as toast or crackers may be started, progressing to a normal diet as tolerated.
Medical care should be sought for vomiting that is associated with head or abdominal injury, fatigue or confusion, severe abdominal pain or distention, fever over 101°F, fresh or dried blood in the vomit, or if it lasts over 24 hours. The source of the vomiting needs to be determined and prescription antiemetic (anti-vomiting) drugs are available.
Take care of yourself
Our ancestors had to depend on themselves to treat most of their medical problems. Despite our excellent access to health care, we also may be faced with such situations. Be prepared by staying healthy and fit, learning first aid and CPR, having family medical books available, and by having a well-stocked first aid kit and medicines available. Take the time now to prepare. Your life may depend on it.
Look online, in books or whereever else to learn how to move injured people and care for them. Pressure Points is another thing that you should know. We can't cover all situations here so please learn as much as you can about this subject.
Friday, August 20, 2010
No Dentist... dental pain can bring us to our knees fast. We need to know how to handle these situations if need be. I encourage you all to learn as much as you can on these medical topics. This knowledge will be needed in an emergency.
We want to thank Bishop Morgan for taking his time with us on Thursday night. As you know Bishop is a dentist. He said that the most important thing you can do is to have the habit of cleaning your teeth. The toothpaste, type of brush or floss don't matter as much as the fact that you use and have the habit of using these things. Have teeth in good repair now, so that if there were an emergency you would be that much further ahead. He also said that he thinks putting an asprin on a toothache would cause the gum to burn. Look for toothpaste that has the ADA seal on it. Use a anti-microbicrol mouthwash. Cold is better for a dental problem than hot.
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This information was given at this forum.
No dentist? Oh, no!
Enjoying lunch while looking out over the gorgeous view from your home, you bite down hard on a nut, hear a loud crack, and immediately feel excruciating pain from a broken tooth. Rare? No, it occurs all the time.
Dental emergencies can occur at home or in the wilderness without warning and can incapacitate a person in an instant. “No problem, I’ll get right over to the dentist,” you think. Hopefully, that is possible, but not always. You may live some distance from a dentist, it may be a night or weekend when it is hard to find one, or there may not be any available.
A toothache is the last thing you need when no dentist is available. Basic knowledge of dental first aid and a few things added to your first aid kit will help you until you can find professional help.
One of the first things that stop during a disaster is dental care. Major natural disasters, such as earthquakes, fires, or floods, and human disasters, such as terrorism or riots, close dental offices in a second. Electrical shortages, as seen in California recently, or any disruption of the regional power grids and there is no help since dentists can’t operate without electricity. Hospitals rarely have any dental services, so you could be on your own for hours or days.
Since dental first aid is rarely taught in first aid classes, information presented here is intended to help you in an emergency situation when no professional dental help is available. It is not intended to be a substitute for proper dental care.
Prevention
Living in a rural area?An avid hunter or fisherman? Nothing can ruin a good hunting trip like a toothache. Anyone going on an extended trip, say over a week, should make sure they are current with their dental check-ups. This is good advice for everyone, whether traveling or staying at home.
A routine visit to the dentist can prevent many painful dental problems. Professional cleanings help prevent gum infections. Fillings that are starting to fail can be fixed before breaking at an inconvenient time. A small cavity in a tooth that causes no pain can be easily repaired before it does.
Proper care of teeth is important. Brush and floss teeth regularly to avoid cavities and gum infections. This is especially important during a time of crisis, such as a disaster or evacuation. While brushing is the last thing on your mind, gingivitis or gum infections are more frequent during times of emotional and physical stress, especially when coupled with poor oral hygiene.
A toothbrush with toothpaste is always the best way to clean your teeth. If one is not available or you find yourself in an emergency survival situation, clean your teeth in other ways. A wash cloth or towel can be used to remove the soft, sticky, bacteria-laden plaque that develops on the surface of the teeth. The end of a thin green twig from a non-poisonous tree or bush can be used. Chew it until it is soft and fibery and use this end as a brush to clean the teeth and gums. Even your finger will work if nothing else is available.
Dental first aid kit
The first time I needed to treat a broken tooth while backpacking, I opened my first aid kit and there was nothing that would help. I’ll bet yours is the same. A few small, lightweight items available at a drug store or market can be added to your first aid kit to treat dental emergencies. I recommend the following:
Dental floss
Soft dental or orthodontic wax
Cotton pellets
Tempanol or Cavit temporary filling material
Oil of cloves (eugenol)
Small dental tweezers
When working in the mouth, remember to always wear protective gloves from your first aid kit to prevent the spread of infectious diseases.
Toothache
A toothache is caused by the inflammation of the nerve inside a tooth, called the dental pulp. Decay from a cavity that extends into the pulp can cause a toothache, as can a fracture of the tooth. If infection occurs in the tooth, it can cause excruciating pain and can spread through the root of the tooth into the jaw causing an abscess.
Symptoms of a toothache include pain in a certain tooth or over several teeth. At first, the pain may be mild, intermittent, and made worse with hot or cold foods or drink, cold air, and the pressure of biting. As it progresses, the pain may become constant, excruciating, and incapacitating.
Sometimes, an abscessed tooth will slowly drain infection into a large cavity. After a meal, when food is packed into the cavity, the drainage may be blocked and the pressure will increase in the tooth causing the toothache to become worse until the food is cleaned out.
Treatment of a toothache consists of locating the painful tooth and checking for any obvious cavity or fracture. Clean out any food with a toothbrush, toothpick, or similar tool. Then soak a small cotton pellet or, if not available, a small piece of cloth, in a topical anesthetic, such as a eugenol or benzocaine solution. This should then be placed in the cavity. A small pair of dental tweezers, like the type provided in commercial toothache kits, tick removing tweezers, or a small instrument like a toothpick is helpful in placing the cotton as it is often hard to get your fingers into the mouth. This topical anesthetic should give quick relief.
Dental items to add to your first aid kit: Cavit or Tempanol temporary filling material, eugenol or benzocaine-based toothache medicine, cotton pellets, small tweezers, small tool for placing filling material, soft dental wax, and dental floss.
The type of topical anesthetic used is important. Dentists use pure eugenol for emergency treatment of toothaches since it is long-lasting, but this can be difficult to find. Oil of cloves is the same thing and is available without prescription at pharmacies and some health food stores. Be careful, however, as pure oil of cloves can cause chemical burns to the mouth and tongue if it gets off the tooth.
Commercial toothache medications that are available include Red Cross Toothache Medicine containing 85% eugenol, Dent’s Toothache Drops containing benzocaine and eugenol, and Orajel containing benzocaine. Some products include the small dental tweezers and cotton pellets that you will need.
Once the medicated cotton is in place, cover it with a temporary filling material, such as Tempanol or Cavit to prevent it from falling out. These are all soft, putty-like materials that can be molded into the cavity. If they are not available, soft dental wax or softened wax from a candle can be used. If a candle is used, melt some wax and let it cool until it is pliable before placing in the mouth.
A pain medication, such as 800mg Motrin every 8 hours, or prescription pain medicines, such as Vicodin, 1-2 every four to six hours, can be used if available. Do not place aspirin on the gum next to a painful tooth. Not only doesn’t it help, it causes a large, painful burn to the gum tissue.
Seek help from a dentist immediately. If it takes some time to find one, it may be necessary to replace the cotton pellet with another freshly soaked in topical anesthetic.
Gingivitis
Gingivitis is an inflammation of the gums (gingiva) most commonly due to inadequate tooth brushing. Gums become red, swollen, and may bleed while brushing the teeth. It is largely preventable by good oral hygiene and regular dental check-ups. When gingivitis causes pain and bleeding in the field, improve oral hygiene by brushing three times per day, followed by warm salt-water rinses. Over-the-counter anti-bacterial mouthwashes may also help.
Dental abscess
An infected tooth or gum infection (gingival infection) can cause a dental abscess, also known as a pus pocket. Food lodged between the teeth can also do so if not removed with dental floss.
Abscesses are normally located next to the offending tooth and cause pain and swelling. They can spread beyond the tooth to the face, floor of the mouth, or neck and it may be difficult to open the mouth or swallow. On rare occasions, dental abscesses can become life-threatening by getting so large that they block breathing or by causing fever or generalized infection throughout the body. Deal with any abscess immediately.
Antibiotics are required to treat abscesses. Go to a dentist immediately. If one is not available or if there is severe swelling go to a physician or hospital emergency room. When dental or medical help is not available and the situation is an emergency, oral antibiotics, such as penicillin 500 mg every six hours, can be given, after making sure the person is not allergic to the medication.
Warm salt-water rinses of the mouth every four hours may help the abscess to spontaneously drain, giving some relief of the pain. Do not place hot packs to the outside of the face unless directed to by your dentist or physician, as heat can spread the infection outward. Pain medications may be used as described above.
In the rare situation where no professional help is expected to be available for some time and no antibiotics are available, an abscess that is localized next to a tooth can be drained to remove the pus. A sterile scalpel, needle, or a fishhook (with the barb removed and disinfected by heating with a match) may be used to puncture the abscess. It will be painful to do, but there should be immediate relief from the abscess.
Broken filling or lost crown
Biting down on candy, nuts, ice cubes, and other hard or sticky foods are common ways to break a tooth or filling. If the tooth is not painful, be careful not to break it further during eating and see a dentist as soon as possible.
Over-the-counter toothache medicines will help ease the pain from a toothache or broken tooth. Many are available, including those containing eugenol (oil of cloves), such as Red Cross Toothache Medicine, benzocaine, such as Orajel, and those containing both, such as Dent’s Toothache Drops.
A temporary filling can be placed to prevent the tooth from becoming sensitive to hot or cold and to avoid food from packing into the hole left by the filling. Place a small amount of a temporary filling material, such as Tempanol or Cavit, into the hole in the tooth using a dental instrument or a flat tool such as the blade of a knife, popsicle stick, or similar tools. Have the person bite down on the temporary material to form it to their bite and then have them open their mouth and remove any excess material. These materials will harden some and remain in place. Soft wax also can be used in the same manner as filling a cavity described above.
Crowns (caps) can be pulled off teeth by sticky foods, such as caramel and salt-water taffy. If the tooth is not sensitive to hot or cold, save the crown and see a dentist as soon as convenient.
If the tooth is so sensitive that it prevents the person from eating, it may be necessary to replace it temporarily. Do this only if really necessary, as this is only a temporary solution and there is a risk that the crown could come off and be swallowed. Clean out any dry cement or material from the inside of the crown with a dental instrument or knife. Place a thin layer of temporary filling material, denture adhesive, or even a thick mixture of water and flour inside the crown. Making sure the crown is aligned properly on the tooth, have the person gently bite down to seat the crown all the way and see a dentist as soon as possible.
Injuries to teeth
A fall or blow to the mouth can injure teeth, most commonly the upper front teeth. Teeth may be in a normal position, but loose when touched, may be partially out of the socket or pushed back, or may be completely knocked out. Unless it is completely knocked out, the first thing you should do is see a dentist.
When one is not available within a reasonable time, a tooth that is out of place may be repositioned with steady, gentle pressure to bring it back into proper position. If it is very loose, gently biting on a piece of gauze can help hold it in place. A dentist should be seen as soon as possible, as the tooth may need to be splinted to hold it in place until healing occurs.
When a tooth is completely knocked out (avulsed), what you do in the first 30 minutes determines whether the tooth can be saved. The ligaments that hold a tooth into the jaw are torn along with the nerve and blood vessels when it is knocked out of its socket and it is essentially a “dead tooth.” When re-implanted into the tooth socket within 30 minutes the body will usually accept it and the ligaments will reattach. While it will require a root canal to remove the dead nerve and blood vessels, it will be a functioning tooth.
Over 30 minutes before it is re-implanted and the body treats it like foreign material and slowly dissolves the root over a period of weeks to months. Often the tooth needs to be extracted.
To treat an avulsed tooth, find the tooth on the ground or in the person’s mouth. If the socket is bleeding, have the person bite down on gauze pads placed over the top of the socket. A moistened non-herbal tea bag may also be used.
Check the tooth to make sure it is whole and not broken. Handling the tooth only by the crown, the part that normally shows in the mouth, don't clean off ,y dirt or debris, drop into milk or better yet set it in place in the mouth. It is important that you do not touch the thin, whitish colored layer of soft tissue covering the root. This is the important layer of periodontal ligament that will allow the tooth to reattach. Replace the tooth into the tooth socket and with gentle, steady pressure push it into place. Have the person bite down lightly on a piece of gauze to hold it in place and see a dentist immediately to have the tooth stabilized.
If a tooth cannot be immediately re-implanted, it should be wrapped in gauze and soaked in a container of sterile saline solution, milk, or the injured person’s saliva while they are immediately taken to a dentist. Some recommend keeping the tooth moist by placing it in the victim’s mouth. Keeping it cold is important.
Dental emergencies are more common than most people realize. While you most often will be able to obtain help from a dentist, there are times when you may be on your own. Prevention, knowledge, and a few important items in a dental first aid kit can save you and your family during these times.
We want to thank Bishop Morgan for taking his time with us on Thursday night. As you know Bishop is a dentist. He said that the most important thing you can do is to have the habit of cleaning your teeth. The toothpaste, type of brush or floss don't matter as much as the fact that you use and have the habit of using these things. Have teeth in good repair now, so that if there were an emergency you would be that much further ahead. He also said that he thinks putting an asprin on a toothache would cause the gum to burn. Look for toothpaste that has the ADA seal on it. Use a anti-microbicrol mouthwash. Cold is better for a dental problem than hot.
******************************************
This information was given at this forum.
No dentist? Oh, no!
Enjoying lunch while looking out over the gorgeous view from your home, you bite down hard on a nut, hear a loud crack, and immediately feel excruciating pain from a broken tooth. Rare? No, it occurs all the time.
Dental emergencies can occur at home or in the wilderness without warning and can incapacitate a person in an instant. “No problem, I’ll get right over to the dentist,” you think. Hopefully, that is possible, but not always. You may live some distance from a dentist, it may be a night or weekend when it is hard to find one, or there may not be any available.
A toothache is the last thing you need when no dentist is available. Basic knowledge of dental first aid and a few things added to your first aid kit will help you until you can find professional help.
One of the first things that stop during a disaster is dental care. Major natural disasters, such as earthquakes, fires, or floods, and human disasters, such as terrorism or riots, close dental offices in a second. Electrical shortages, as seen in California recently, or any disruption of the regional power grids and there is no help since dentists can’t operate without electricity. Hospitals rarely have any dental services, so you could be on your own for hours or days.
Since dental first aid is rarely taught in first aid classes, information presented here is intended to help you in an emergency situation when no professional dental help is available. It is not intended to be a substitute for proper dental care.
Prevention
Living in a rural area?An avid hunter or fisherman? Nothing can ruin a good hunting trip like a toothache. Anyone going on an extended trip, say over a week, should make sure they are current with their dental check-ups. This is good advice for everyone, whether traveling or staying at home.
A routine visit to the dentist can prevent many painful dental problems. Professional cleanings help prevent gum infections. Fillings that are starting to fail can be fixed before breaking at an inconvenient time. A small cavity in a tooth that causes no pain can be easily repaired before it does.
Proper care of teeth is important. Brush and floss teeth regularly to avoid cavities and gum infections. This is especially important during a time of crisis, such as a disaster or evacuation. While brushing is the last thing on your mind, gingivitis or gum infections are more frequent during times of emotional and physical stress, especially when coupled with poor oral hygiene.
A toothbrush with toothpaste is always the best way to clean your teeth. If one is not available or you find yourself in an emergency survival situation, clean your teeth in other ways. A wash cloth or towel can be used to remove the soft, sticky, bacteria-laden plaque that develops on the surface of the teeth. The end of a thin green twig from a non-poisonous tree or bush can be used. Chew it until it is soft and fibery and use this end as a brush to clean the teeth and gums. Even your finger will work if nothing else is available.
Dental first aid kit
The first time I needed to treat a broken tooth while backpacking, I opened my first aid kit and there was nothing that would help. I’ll bet yours is the same. A few small, lightweight items available at a drug store or market can be added to your first aid kit to treat dental emergencies. I recommend the following:
Dental floss
Soft dental or orthodontic wax
Cotton pellets
Tempanol or Cavit temporary filling material
Oil of cloves (eugenol)
Small dental tweezers
When working in the mouth, remember to always wear protective gloves from your first aid kit to prevent the spread of infectious diseases.
Toothache
A toothache is caused by the inflammation of the nerve inside a tooth, called the dental pulp. Decay from a cavity that extends into the pulp can cause a toothache, as can a fracture of the tooth. If infection occurs in the tooth, it can cause excruciating pain and can spread through the root of the tooth into the jaw causing an abscess.
Symptoms of a toothache include pain in a certain tooth or over several teeth. At first, the pain may be mild, intermittent, and made worse with hot or cold foods or drink, cold air, and the pressure of biting. As it progresses, the pain may become constant, excruciating, and incapacitating.
Sometimes, an abscessed tooth will slowly drain infection into a large cavity. After a meal, when food is packed into the cavity, the drainage may be blocked and the pressure will increase in the tooth causing the toothache to become worse until the food is cleaned out.
Treatment of a toothache consists of locating the painful tooth and checking for any obvious cavity or fracture. Clean out any food with a toothbrush, toothpick, or similar tool. Then soak a small cotton pellet or, if not available, a small piece of cloth, in a topical anesthetic, such as a eugenol or benzocaine solution. This should then be placed in the cavity. A small pair of dental tweezers, like the type provided in commercial toothache kits, tick removing tweezers, or a small instrument like a toothpick is helpful in placing the cotton as it is often hard to get your fingers into the mouth. This topical anesthetic should give quick relief.
Dental items to add to your first aid kit: Cavit or Tempanol temporary filling material, eugenol or benzocaine-based toothache medicine, cotton pellets, small tweezers, small tool for placing filling material, soft dental wax, and dental floss.
The type of topical anesthetic used is important. Dentists use pure eugenol for emergency treatment of toothaches since it is long-lasting, but this can be difficult to find. Oil of cloves is the same thing and is available without prescription at pharmacies and some health food stores. Be careful, however, as pure oil of cloves can cause chemical burns to the mouth and tongue if it gets off the tooth.
Commercial toothache medications that are available include Red Cross Toothache Medicine containing 85% eugenol, Dent’s Toothache Drops containing benzocaine and eugenol, and Orajel containing benzocaine. Some products include the small dental tweezers and cotton pellets that you will need.
Once the medicated cotton is in place, cover it with a temporary filling material, such as Tempanol or Cavit to prevent it from falling out. These are all soft, putty-like materials that can be molded into the cavity. If they are not available, soft dental wax or softened wax from a candle can be used. If a candle is used, melt some wax and let it cool until it is pliable before placing in the mouth.
A pain medication, such as 800mg Motrin every 8 hours, or prescription pain medicines, such as Vicodin, 1-2 every four to six hours, can be used if available. Do not place aspirin on the gum next to a painful tooth. Not only doesn’t it help, it causes a large, painful burn to the gum tissue.
Seek help from a dentist immediately. If it takes some time to find one, it may be necessary to replace the cotton pellet with another freshly soaked in topical anesthetic.
Gingivitis
Gingivitis is an inflammation of the gums (gingiva) most commonly due to inadequate tooth brushing. Gums become red, swollen, and may bleed while brushing the teeth. It is largely preventable by good oral hygiene and regular dental check-ups. When gingivitis causes pain and bleeding in the field, improve oral hygiene by brushing three times per day, followed by warm salt-water rinses. Over-the-counter anti-bacterial mouthwashes may also help.
Dental abscess
An infected tooth or gum infection (gingival infection) can cause a dental abscess, also known as a pus pocket. Food lodged between the teeth can also do so if not removed with dental floss.
Abscesses are normally located next to the offending tooth and cause pain and swelling. They can spread beyond the tooth to the face, floor of the mouth, or neck and it may be difficult to open the mouth or swallow. On rare occasions, dental abscesses can become life-threatening by getting so large that they block breathing or by causing fever or generalized infection throughout the body. Deal with any abscess immediately.
Antibiotics are required to treat abscesses. Go to a dentist immediately. If one is not available or if there is severe swelling go to a physician or hospital emergency room. When dental or medical help is not available and the situation is an emergency, oral antibiotics, such as penicillin 500 mg every six hours, can be given, after making sure the person is not allergic to the medication.
Warm salt-water rinses of the mouth every four hours may help the abscess to spontaneously drain, giving some relief of the pain. Do not place hot packs to the outside of the face unless directed to by your dentist or physician, as heat can spread the infection outward. Pain medications may be used as described above.
In the rare situation where no professional help is expected to be available for some time and no antibiotics are available, an abscess that is localized next to a tooth can be drained to remove the pus. A sterile scalpel, needle, or a fishhook (with the barb removed and disinfected by heating with a match) may be used to puncture the abscess. It will be painful to do, but there should be immediate relief from the abscess.
Broken filling or lost crown
Biting down on candy, nuts, ice cubes, and other hard or sticky foods are common ways to break a tooth or filling. If the tooth is not painful, be careful not to break it further during eating and see a dentist as soon as possible.
Over-the-counter toothache medicines will help ease the pain from a toothache or broken tooth. Many are available, including those containing eugenol (oil of cloves), such as Red Cross Toothache Medicine, benzocaine, such as Orajel, and those containing both, such as Dent’s Toothache Drops.
A temporary filling can be placed to prevent the tooth from becoming sensitive to hot or cold and to avoid food from packing into the hole left by the filling. Place a small amount of a temporary filling material, such as Tempanol or Cavit, into the hole in the tooth using a dental instrument or a flat tool such as the blade of a knife, popsicle stick, or similar tools. Have the person bite down on the temporary material to form it to their bite and then have them open their mouth and remove any excess material. These materials will harden some and remain in place. Soft wax also can be used in the same manner as filling a cavity described above.
Crowns (caps) can be pulled off teeth by sticky foods, such as caramel and salt-water taffy. If the tooth is not sensitive to hot or cold, save the crown and see a dentist as soon as convenient.
If the tooth is so sensitive that it prevents the person from eating, it may be necessary to replace it temporarily. Do this only if really necessary, as this is only a temporary solution and there is a risk that the crown could come off and be swallowed. Clean out any dry cement or material from the inside of the crown with a dental instrument or knife. Place a thin layer of temporary filling material, denture adhesive, or even a thick mixture of water and flour inside the crown. Making sure the crown is aligned properly on the tooth, have the person gently bite down to seat the crown all the way and see a dentist as soon as possible.
Injuries to teeth
A fall or blow to the mouth can injure teeth, most commonly the upper front teeth. Teeth may be in a normal position, but loose when touched, may be partially out of the socket or pushed back, or may be completely knocked out. Unless it is completely knocked out, the first thing you should do is see a dentist.
When one is not available within a reasonable time, a tooth that is out of place may be repositioned with steady, gentle pressure to bring it back into proper position. If it is very loose, gently biting on a piece of gauze can help hold it in place. A dentist should be seen as soon as possible, as the tooth may need to be splinted to hold it in place until healing occurs.
When a tooth is completely knocked out (avulsed), what you do in the first 30 minutes determines whether the tooth can be saved. The ligaments that hold a tooth into the jaw are torn along with the nerve and blood vessels when it is knocked out of its socket and it is essentially a “dead tooth.” When re-implanted into the tooth socket within 30 minutes the body will usually accept it and the ligaments will reattach. While it will require a root canal to remove the dead nerve and blood vessels, it will be a functioning tooth.
Over 30 minutes before it is re-implanted and the body treats it like foreign material and slowly dissolves the root over a period of weeks to months. Often the tooth needs to be extracted.
To treat an avulsed tooth, find the tooth on the ground or in the person’s mouth. If the socket is bleeding, have the person bite down on gauze pads placed over the top of the socket. A moistened non-herbal tea bag may also be used.
Check the tooth to make sure it is whole and not broken. Handling the tooth only by the crown, the part that normally shows in the mouth, don't clean off ,y dirt or debris, drop into milk or better yet set it in place in the mouth. It is important that you do not touch the thin, whitish colored layer of soft tissue covering the root. This is the important layer of periodontal ligament that will allow the tooth to reattach. Replace the tooth into the tooth socket and with gentle, steady pressure push it into place. Have the person bite down lightly on a piece of gauze to hold it in place and see a dentist immediately to have the tooth stabilized.
If a tooth cannot be immediately re-implanted, it should be wrapped in gauze and soaked in a container of sterile saline solution, milk, or the injured person’s saliva while they are immediately taken to a dentist. Some recommend keeping the tooth moist by placing it in the victim’s mouth. Keeping it cold is important.
Dental emergencies are more common than most people realize. While you most often will be able to obtain help from a dentist, there are times when you may be on your own. Prevention, knowledge, and a few important items in a dental first aid kit can save you and your family during these times.
Today's Lunch Menu Is:
White Bean and Bow Tie Salad!
12 oz. Cooked and Drained Bow Tie Pasta
1 3/4 cup Soaked and Cooked Dry White Beans
OR
1 (15 oz.) can White Beans Drained
1 (2 oz.) can Sliced Black Olives, Drained
Black Olives can be replaced with fresh cucumbers, tomatoes, or even fresh spinach.
2/3 cup Bottled Italian Salad Dressing
1 tsp. Dried Basil
1/4 tsp. Garlic Powder
2 Tbsp. Parmesan Cheese
Instructions:
Stir together pasta, beans and olives in a bowl. Combine rest of ingredients except Parmesan cheese. Pour dressing over salad. Serve sprinkled with Parmesan cheese.
Serves 4.
Fast . . . Easy . . . and Even BETTER than it looks!
White Bean and Bow Tie Salad!
A Bag Meal (put in jar or baggie) for future use.
Here's the Recipe:
12 oz. Cooked and Drained Bow Tie Pasta
1 3/4 cup Soaked and Cooked Dry White Beans
OR
1 (15 oz.) can White Beans Drained
1 (2 oz.) can Sliced Black Olives, Drained
Black Olives can be replaced with fresh cucumbers, tomatoes, or even fresh spinach.
2/3 cup Bottled Italian Salad Dressing
1 tsp. Dried Basil
1/4 tsp. Garlic Powder
2 Tbsp. Parmesan Cheese
Instructions:
Stir together pasta, beans and olives in a bowl. Combine rest of ingredients except Parmesan cheese. Pour dressing over salad. Serve sprinkled with Parmesan cheese.
Serves 4.
Fast . . . Easy . . . and Even BETTER than it looks!
Friday, August 6, 2010
I know it's summer and soup is usually the last thing you want for dinner, but this recipe is sooo good you won't want to wait for a cold day.
Here's the Recipe:
3 1/2 cups Beef Stock or Beef Broth
3 1/2 cups Water
2 cans Cooked Beef
(You can get this at Smith's and it's really good in soups and fajitas. Or use the canned meat from last weeks canning directions that you canned yourself)
1 (14 to 16-ounce) can Diced Tomatoes
1 cup Medium Egg Noodles
2 medium Fresh Carrots, peeled and thinly sliced.
(Dehydrated carrots can be replaced for the fresh - 1/3 cup Dried.)
2 Ribs Celery, strings removed, halved and diced.
(Dehydrated celery can be replaced for fresh - 2 Tbsp. Dried.)
1 large Yellow Onion, peeled and diced.
(Dried minced onion can be replaced for the fresh - 1/4 cup Dried.)
1/2 cup Frozen Peas
(Freeze Dried Peas can be replaced for the fresh - 1/4 cup Dried.)
1 large Clove Garlic, peeled
(Dried Minced Garlic can be replaced for fresh.)
1 Bay Leaf
1/2 tsp. Dried Thyme
Black Pepper and Kosher Salt to taste.
Note:
If using all Dehydrated or Freeze Dried ingredients increase water and beef stock by 1 cup each.
Recipe Instructions: Add all of the ingredients with the exception of the noodles to a Crockpot and cook on medium heat for 4-5 hours. If you don't have elecric for some reason, your solar oven would work great on this!!
Add noodles the last hour.
This Recipe is a....
PERFECT BAG MEAL RECIPE!
The dehydrated or freeze dried ingredients in this recipe can be measured and put into a 1 Gallon-Sized Ziploc Bag,
Which leads us to our Bag Meal for the Day!
Bag Meal Contents:
3 (9-ounce) Bottles Water
3 cans Beef Stock or Beef Broth
2 cans Cooked Beef--that you canned yourself--directions from a few days ago
1 (14 to 16-ounce) can Diced Tomatoes
and for a side dish or dessert . . .
Bottle or Can of Fruit
1 Quart-Sized Ziploc Bag:
1/3 cup Dehydrated Carrots
2 Tbsp. Dried Celery
1/4 cup Dried Minced Onion
1/4 cup Freeze Dried or Dehydrated Peas
1 tsp. Dried Minced Garlic
1 Bay Leaf
1/2 tsp. Dried Thyme
Kosher Salt and Black Pepper to Taste
1 Snack-Sized Ziploc Bag: 1 cup Medium Egg Noodles
Instructions: Add all of the ingredients with the exception of the noodles
to a Crockpot and cook on medium heat for 4-5 hours. Use your Solar Oven...I dare you!!! Let me know if you did!!!
Add noodles the last hour.
Serve this with some of your homemade bread and a bottle of fruit.
Dinner is served . . . and it takes less than 5 minutes to put it all together!
Nothing Beats a Good Bowl of Comfort Food!
Herbs for Medicine
Alma 46:40 And there were some who died with fever, which at some seasons of the year were very frequent in the land-but not so much so with fevers, because of the excellent qualities of the many plant and roots which God had prepared to remove the cause of diseases, to which men were subject by nature of the climate.
Remember the story about the boy whose hip was distroyed in the pioneer days. His mother didn't know what to do so she prayed and was instructed to get some ashes and make a paste of them and put them in the place where his hip was. After doing this and leaving this there for a day, she removed the ashes and the spot was clean and infection free. She then prayed and asked what to do next and she was told to get some slippery elm root and crush it and make a paste of it and put it in the same place. She did and repeated this process for several days. After awhile the cartledge in this hip place had grown and the boy could walk.
Pioneers used herbal remedies all the time as did people for centuries before. It is only in the past 75 years that we have lost this art. We need to regain it again. All the listed herbs grown locally so we can gather them for ourselves. Don't dry them in a drier just pick and let them dry naturally. if you want to purchase the herbs Starwest.com is a good place or locally Mary's Herb Shop next to Dick's in Layton. There are other places just make sure you know the quality of the herb your buying.
If you have someone recuperating from any illness or operation. We were told to mix 1 Cup milk, 1T Slippery Elm Root and add honey, cinnamon and Nutmeg to taste and drink about 3 times a day. We had a sample of this...it was good to the taste.
For pregnant women: use raspberry leaves and make a tea 1T to 1 qt water. this helps with morning sickness, labor and all aspects of the pregnancy. Add ginger to help with morning sickness also.
For shock: 1T apple cider vinegar, 1T honey, a pinch of cayenne pepper added to 16oz of water.
For High Fever: peppermint and Elderberry in a tea.
For bruises, sores and any skin healing: Equal parts comfrey, honey, oil and blend in to thick paste. Apply where needed.
To remove toxins from the body: Add 3T. ginger into your bath water. This draws toxins out.
For infections: golden seal, echineacea, and garlic. These are natural anti-biotics. Also ASAP Silver solution is a great thing to have on hand.
For inflamation: 1 1000mg Vitamin C with 3 regular asprin. Not a asprin substitute (ie) tylenol, IB, or Advil.
I read a book named The second After. In this book several people died because they could no longer get their medications for heart, diabetic, or other physical problems. If they only knew that the plants around them could have helped them, they would not have needed to die for lack of medication. Knowledge can save lives. We need to know these plants and use them. They were put on the Earth for our use by the Lord.
There are several books that can be purchased or you can borrow from a library on this subject. You can even get a lot of information online. Just put Herbal medicines in the search line.
Here are the ten most recommended herbs to have in storage and on hand at all times for many conditions:
Alma 46:40 And there were some who died with fever, which at some seasons of the year were very frequent in the land-but not so much so with fevers, because of the excellent qualities of the many plant and roots which God had prepared to remove the cause of diseases, to which men were subject by nature of the climate.
Remember the story about the boy whose hip was distroyed in the pioneer days. His mother didn't know what to do so she prayed and was instructed to get some ashes and make a paste of them and put them in the place where his hip was. After doing this and leaving this there for a day, she removed the ashes and the spot was clean and infection free. She then prayed and asked what to do next and she was told to get some slippery elm root and crush it and make a paste of it and put it in the same place. She did and repeated this process for several days. After awhile the cartledge in this hip place had grown and the boy could walk.
Pioneers used herbal remedies all the time as did people for centuries before. It is only in the past 75 years that we have lost this art. We need to regain it again. All the listed herbs grown locally so we can gather them for ourselves. Don't dry them in a drier just pick and let them dry naturally. if you want to purchase the herbs Starwest.com is a good place or locally Mary's Herb Shop next to Dick's in Layton. There are other places just make sure you know the quality of the herb your buying.
If you have someone recuperating from any illness or operation. We were told to mix 1 Cup milk, 1T Slippery Elm Root and add honey, cinnamon and Nutmeg to taste and drink about 3 times a day. We had a sample of this...it was good to the taste.
For pregnant women: use raspberry leaves and make a tea 1T to 1 qt water. this helps with morning sickness, labor and all aspects of the pregnancy. Add ginger to help with morning sickness also.
For shock: 1T apple cider vinegar, 1T honey, a pinch of cayenne pepper added to 16oz of water.
For High Fever: peppermint and Elderberry in a tea.
For bruises, sores and any skin healing: Equal parts comfrey, honey, oil and blend in to thick paste. Apply where needed.
To remove toxins from the body: Add 3T. ginger into your bath water. This draws toxins out.
For infections: golden seal, echineacea, and garlic. These are natural anti-biotics. Also ASAP Silver solution is a great thing to have on hand.
For inflamation: 1 1000mg Vitamin C with 3 regular asprin. Not a asprin substitute (ie) tylenol, IB, or Advil.
I read a book named The second After. In this book several people died because they could no longer get their medications for heart, diabetic, or other physical problems. If they only knew that the plants around them could have helped them, they would not have needed to die for lack of medication. Knowledge can save lives. We need to know these plants and use them. They were put on the Earth for our use by the Lord.
There are several books that can be purchased or you can borrow from a library on this subject. You can even get a lot of information online. Just put Herbal medicines in the search line.
Here are the ten most recommended herbs to have in storage and on hand at all times for many conditions:
Wednesday, August 4, 2010
August Forum topics:
You need to know these things!! Please Attend... your knowledge could save a life or several lifes.
This month is concentrated on our physical health in an emergency situation.
What if we couldn't get to a doctor or dentist when one is needed? What if the pharmacy is closed or out of what we need and there is no sign of more coming? What if we are lost in the mountains?
We need to know what to do!
I strongly encourage you to attend these forums to get the valuable information that is in them. Thursday nights, 7 pm, in the Fruit Hts Chapel across from the city hall, in the room next to the kitchen.
5- How to use herbs for medicines by Vicky Buehler, herbalist
12- What to do when there is no Doctor by Doc Warden & Marylou
19- What to do when there is no Dentist by Bishop Morgan
26- Survival in the Wilderness by Steve Petty
See you there!!!
You need to know these things!! Please Attend... your knowledge could save a life or several lifes.
This month is concentrated on our physical health in an emergency situation.
What if we couldn't get to a doctor or dentist when one is needed? What if the pharmacy is closed or out of what we need and there is no sign of more coming? What if we are lost in the mountains?
We need to know what to do!
I strongly encourage you to attend these forums to get the valuable information that is in them. Thursday nights, 7 pm, in the Fruit Hts Chapel across from the city hall, in the room next to the kitchen.
5- How to use herbs for medicines by Vicky Buehler, herbalist
12- What to do when there is no Doctor by Doc Warden & Marylou
19- What to do when there is no Dentist by Bishop Morgan
26- Survival in the Wilderness by Steve Petty
See you there!!!
It's Apricot Season!
Time to make some Homemade Apricot Preserves!!!!
Here's How:
Apricots are canned with the skin on. Without the skin they are more likely to fall apart.
Remember: The better the fruit . . . The better the taste!
Start by rinsing all of the fruit. Halve the apricots and remove the pits.
I use a light syrup for my apricots, but you can use a medium or a heavy syrup if you would like. The syrup is made with sugar and water.
Slowly bring the sugar and water to a boil and continue boiling until all of the sugar is dissolved.
Place the prepared fruit into the sterilized jars. Add lemon juice(1 Tbsp. for pints and 2 Tbsp. for quarts.) or Vitamin C tablets to the syrup. This will help to keep the fruits color.
Pour hot syrup over the fruit to 1/2" headspace. This is the space between the contents of the jar and the top rim of the jar.
Process in a Waterbath Canner. 25 Minutes for Pints. 30 Minutes for Quarts.
Don't forget to label and date the jar!
Think about canning some Apricot Juice as well...that would taste really good this winter!!! These are also good dehydrated or made into fruit leather!!
Enjoy!
Here's How:
Apricots are canned with the skin on. Without the skin they are more likely to fall apart.
Remember: The better the fruit . . . The better the taste!
I use a light syrup for my apricots, but you can use a medium or a heavy syrup if you would like. The syrup is made with sugar and water.
Slowly bring the sugar and water to a boil and continue boiling until all of the sugar is dissolved.
Place the prepared fruit into the sterilized jars. Add lemon juice(1 Tbsp. for pints and 2 Tbsp. for quarts.) or Vitamin C tablets to the syrup. This will help to keep the fruits color.
Pour hot syrup over the fruit to 1/2" headspace. This is the space between the contents of the jar and the top rim of the jar.
Process in a Waterbath Canner. 25 Minutes for Pints. 30 Minutes for Quarts.
Don't forget to label and date the jar!
Think about canning some Apricot Juice as well...that would taste really good this winter!!! These are also good dehydrated or made into fruit leather!!
Enjoy!
Friday, July 30, 2010
Breakfast Bag Meal is also a Mix for . . .
Apple Cinnamon Pancakes!
Here's the Recipe:
3 cups All-Purpose Flour
4 tsp. Cinnamon
2 1/4 Tbsp. Sugar
2 Tbsp. Baking Powder
1 1/4 tsp. Salt
2 1/4 Tbsp. Powdered Milk
1 1/2 Tbsp. Powdered Eggs
3/4 cup Dried Apple Pieces
Mix all ingredients until well blended and place into a wide-mouth 1-quart canning jar or 1 gallon-sized Ziploc bag.
To Make the Pancakes Add:
1 1/3 cup Apple Cinnamon Pancake Mix
*2 Tbsp. Vegetable Oil
3/4 cup + 3 Tbsp. Water
If you've used the pancake mix from the store, you've already tasted powdered eggs and powdered milk.
Note:
For fresh ingredients: You will replace the egg and milk powder with 3/4 cup Milk and 1 Egg.
Do NOT add the water if you make this change.
Instructions:
In a medium bowl, combine milk, egg, and vegetable oil. Whisk in Apple Cinnamon Pancake Mix until moistened but still lumpy.
Heat a lightly oiled griddle or frying pan over medium high heat.
Pour batter, 1/4 cup at a time, onto the prepared griddle.
Cook both sides until golden brown, flipping when the surface begins to bubble.
Bag Contents:
1 (9-ounce) Bottle Water
1 Gallon-Sized Ziploc Bag:
Apple Cinnamon Pancake Mix
(Your *Oil is a Pantry Item.)
1 Small Bottle of Syrup
1 Bottle or Can of Fruit
1 Can Butter
Challenge:
Just try one batch with the powdered eggs and milk. But . . . Don't tell your family what you did.
They'll never know!
Apple Cinnamon Pancakes!
Here's the Recipe:
3 cups All-Purpose Flour
4 tsp. Cinnamon
2 1/4 Tbsp. Sugar
2 Tbsp. Baking Powder
1 1/4 tsp. Salt
2 1/4 Tbsp. Powdered Milk
1 1/2 Tbsp. Powdered Eggs
3/4 cup Dried Apple Pieces
Mix all ingredients until well blended and place into a wide-mouth 1-quart canning jar or 1 gallon-sized Ziploc bag.
To Make the Pancakes Add:
1 1/3 cup Apple Cinnamon Pancake Mix
*2 Tbsp. Vegetable Oil
3/4 cup + 3 Tbsp. Water
If you've used the pancake mix from the store, you've already tasted powdered eggs and powdered milk.
Note:
For fresh ingredients: You will replace the egg and milk powder with 3/4 cup Milk and 1 Egg.
Do NOT add the water if you make this change.
Instructions:
In a medium bowl, combine milk, egg, and vegetable oil. Whisk in Apple Cinnamon Pancake Mix until moistened but still lumpy.
Heat a lightly oiled griddle or frying pan over medium high heat.
Pour batter, 1/4 cup at a time, onto the prepared griddle.
Cook both sides until golden brown, flipping when the surface begins to bubble.
Bag Contents:
1 (9-ounce) Bottle Water
1 Gallon-Sized Ziploc Bag:
Apple Cinnamon Pancake Mix
(Your *Oil is a Pantry Item.)
1 Small Bottle of Syrup
1 Bottle or Can of Fruit
1 Can Butter
Challenge:
They'll never know!
If you've never canned Hamburger, Sausage, or Ground Turkey . . .
I TRIPLE DOG DARE YOU to give it a try. It's super easy and it's a great addition to your Bag Meals! YUMMMMMM!
I have to admit the first time I saw canned hamburger I wasn't feelin' the love. It was pink and had a weird texture. Times have changed . . . thank heavens!
The recipe I'm going to share with you has been pre-cooked. Now it just looks like it's been browned and put into a jar with a little bit of water.
The Hamburger is on the left and the Sausage is on the right in the picture above. Soooo much better!
When you have bottled meat on hand the possibilities are endless, and because it's already been cooked, it's safe to eat even if you have no way of heating it.
You could whip up a batch of Sloppy Joe's or Spaghetti in minutes and you won't even smell like cooked hamburger when you leave the house. A great reason in and of itself to can your own Hamburger and Sausage!
Here's the How To:
Remember . . .
You have to use a Pressure Canner to can meats!
Start by:
Browning your ground beef. I use onions to season my hamburger. (If you cook with onions, this is a great time saver.) I didn't add onions to my sausage.
Salt will be added at a later point in the process. It takes about 1 pound per pint jar and 2 pounds per quart jar. Strain the cooked hamburger to make sure that all of the fat has been removed.
You could put in 1/4 tsp. of salt if you wish at this point.
Heat the lids to a simmer . . . do not boil the lids.
Wipe the rims of the jars well.
Place the lid on each jar and secure it with a canning ring.
Add 3" of water to the Pressure Canner as well as 1-2 Tbsp. of white vinegar.
Place your jars into the Pressure Canner. Process pint jars for 75 minutes at 15 lbs. psi. Process quart jars or 90 minutes.
If your pressure canner doesn't have a guage . . .make sure you get a good rock . . . before you start the clock! Here's the finished product!
Looks Delish . . . and NO FREEZER BURN!
I TRIPLE DOG DARE YOU to give it a try. It's super easy and it's a great addition to your Bag Meals! YUMMMMMM!
The recipe I'm going to share with you has been pre-cooked. Now it just looks like it's been browned and put into a jar with a little bit of water.
The Hamburger is on the left and the Sausage is on the right in the picture above. Soooo much better!
When you have bottled meat on hand the possibilities are endless, and because it's already been cooked, it's safe to eat even if you have no way of heating it.
You could whip up a batch of Sloppy Joe's or Spaghetti in minutes and you won't even smell like cooked hamburger when you leave the house. A great reason in and of itself to can your own Hamburger and Sausage!
Here's the How To:
Remember . . .
You have to use a Pressure Canner to can meats!
Start by:
Browning your ground beef. I use onions to season my hamburger. (If you cook with onions, this is a great time saver.) I didn't add onions to my sausage.
Salt will be added at a later point in the process. It takes about 1 pound per pint jar and 2 pounds per quart jar. Strain the cooked hamburger to make sure that all of the fat has been removed.
Place your cooked ground beef into sterilized jars. Press down with your spoon and leave 1-inch head space.
Pour hot water into the jars.
Heat the lids to a simmer . . . do not boil the lids.
Wipe the rims of the jars well.
Place the lid on each jar and secure it with a canning ring.
Add 3" of water to the Pressure Canner as well as 1-2 Tbsp. of white vinegar.
(This will help to keep the jars clear of hard water.)
Place your jars into the Pressure Canner. Process pint jars for 75 minutes at 15 lbs. psi. Process quart jars or 90 minutes.
If your pressure canner doesn't have a guage . . .make sure you get a good rock . . . before you start the clock! Here's the finished product!
Looks Delish . . . and NO FREEZER BURN!
The texture of the hamburger is a little bit different than you are probably used to. The texture is similar to what you would find in a pot of hamburger stew.
If you want to crisp it up, just drain the juice and throw it into the frying pan for a few minutes.
(The meat is very lean, so you may want to add a little bit of oil to the pan before adding the hamburger.)
See how easy it is and once you have some on hand, you can make:
Tacos or Enchiladas, Shepherd's Pie, Beef Stroganoff, Taco Soup,
Sloppy Joe's, Lasagna, Spaghetti, Sausage Omelets . . . etc.
Sooo many possibilities!
Follow the same recipe for bottled sausage and turkey minus the onions.
Thursday, July 29, 2010
It's a Bucket of Charcoal Briquettes!
Can you cook or heat the food you are storing? Here is a safe fuel to store and cheap too!
You Will Need:
1 or 2 5-Gallon Buckets with Lids
1 to 2 Bags of Charcoal Briquettes
and The Printed document below plus the label for your buckets.
I haven't been able to confirm an expiration date anywhere for the briquettes.
The Document below says that Charcoal properly stored can last Indefinately!
I would recomend printing the page and storing it inside of your charcoal buckets.This Document on Charcoal was sent in by Mel Blocks from the Homeland Security Website. It will answer any of the questions you have about storing and using Charcoal.
Here is where the document begins:
Charcoal: Charcoal is the least expensive fuel per BTU that the average family can store. Remember that it must always be used out of doors because of the vast amounts of poisonous carbon monoxide it produces. Charcoal will store for extended period of time if it is stored in air tight containers. It readily absorbs moisture from the surrounding air so do not store it in the paper bags it comes in for more than a few months or it may be difficult to light. Transfer it to airtight metal or plastic containers and it will keep almost forever.
Sixty Dollars worth of charcoal will provide all the cooking fuel a family will need for an entire year if used sparingly. The best time to buy briquettes inexpensively is at the end of the summer. Broken or torn bags of briquettes are usually sold at a big discount. You will also want to store a small amount of charcoal lighter fluid (or kerosene). Newspapers will also provide an excellent ignition source for charcoal when used in a funnel type of lighting device. (See Randy Anderson for this item, that is where I got mine it is $5-6 a bag--best deal I found)
To light charcoal using newspapers use two or three sheets, crumpled up, and a #10 tin can. Cut both ends out of the can. Punch holes every two inches around the lower edge of the can with a punch-type can opener (for opening juice cans). Set the can down so the punches holes are on the bottom. Place the crumpled newspaper in the bottom of the can and place the charcoal briquettes on top of the newspaper. Lift the can slightly and light the newspaper. Prop a small rock under the bottom edge of the can to create a good draft. The briquettes will be ready to use in about 20-30 minutes. When the coals are ready remove the chimney and place them in your cooker. Never place burning charcoal directly on concrete or cement because the heat will crack it. A wheelbarrow or old metal garbage can lid makes an excellent container for this type of fire.
One of the nice things about charcoal is that you can regulate the heat you will receive from them. Each briquette will produce about 40 degrees of heat. If you are baking bread, for example, and need 400 degrees of heat for your oven, simply use ten briquettes.
To conserve heat and thereby get the maximum heat value from your charcoal you must learn to funnel the heat where you want it rather than letting it dissipate into the air around you. One excellent way to do this is to cook inside a cardboard oven. Take a cardboard box, about the size of an orange crate, and cover it with aluminum foil inside and out. Be sure that the shiny side is visible so that maximum reflectivity is achieved. Turn the box on its side so that the opening is no longer on the top but is on the side. Place some small bricks or other noncombustible material inside upon which you can rest a cookie sheet about two or three inches above the bottom of the box. Place ten burning charcoal briquettes between the bricks (if you need 400 degrees), place the support for your cooking vessels, and then place your bread pans or whatever else you are using on top of the cookie sheet. Prop a foil-covered cardboard lid over the open side, leaving a large crack for air to get in (charcoal needs a lot of air to burn) and bake your bread, cake, cookies, etc. just like you would in your regular oven. Your results will amaze you.
To make your own charcoal, select twigs, limbs, and branches of fruit, nut and other hardwood trees; black walnuts and peach or apricot pits may also be used. Cut wood into desired size, place in a large can which has a few holes punched in it, put a lid on the can and place the can in a hot fire. When the flames from the holes in the can turn yellow-red, remove the can from the fire and allow it to cool. Store the briquettes in a moisture-proof container.
End Document
Burn charcoal only in a well-ventilated area! Did You Know . . . That 1 Bag of Charcoal Briquettes will make it possible for you to cook 1 Meal a Day for a Whole Month?!? That is 13-- 20 lbs bags will be good for 1 year. It is hard to find 20lbs bags anymore so figure on 260 lbs per year.
It's a great storage item to have on hand. Add a couple bottles of starter fluid and you're good to go! (See Randy for this also. He sells it at ACE in Kaysville) He has a different brand, but a good deal at $2.99 a bottle. That was a sale price so ask him about it.
Don't Forget the Matches!
Can you cook or heat the food you are storing? Here is a safe fuel to store and cheap too!
You Will Need:
1 or 2 5-Gallon Buckets with Lids
1 to 2 Bags of Charcoal Briquettes
and The Printed document below plus the label for your buckets.
I haven't been able to confirm an expiration date anywhere for the briquettes.
The Document below says that Charcoal properly stored can last Indefinately!
I would recomend printing the page and storing it inside of your charcoal buckets.This Document on Charcoal was sent in by Mel Blocks from the Homeland Security Website. It will answer any of the questions you have about storing and using Charcoal.
Put these labels on your buckets
Here is where the document begins:
Charcoal: Charcoal is the least expensive fuel per BTU that the average family can store. Remember that it must always be used out of doors because of the vast amounts of poisonous carbon monoxide it produces. Charcoal will store for extended period of time if it is stored in air tight containers. It readily absorbs moisture from the surrounding air so do not store it in the paper bags it comes in for more than a few months or it may be difficult to light. Transfer it to airtight metal or plastic containers and it will keep almost forever.
Sixty Dollars worth of charcoal will provide all the cooking fuel a family will need for an entire year if used sparingly. The best time to buy briquettes inexpensively is at the end of the summer. Broken or torn bags of briquettes are usually sold at a big discount. You will also want to store a small amount of charcoal lighter fluid (or kerosene). Newspapers will also provide an excellent ignition source for charcoal when used in a funnel type of lighting device. (See Randy Anderson for this item, that is where I got mine it is $5-6 a bag--best deal I found)
To light charcoal using newspapers use two or three sheets, crumpled up, and a #10 tin can. Cut both ends out of the can. Punch holes every two inches around the lower edge of the can with a punch-type can opener (for opening juice cans). Set the can down so the punches holes are on the bottom. Place the crumpled newspaper in the bottom of the can and place the charcoal briquettes on top of the newspaper. Lift the can slightly and light the newspaper. Prop a small rock under the bottom edge of the can to create a good draft. The briquettes will be ready to use in about 20-30 minutes. When the coals are ready remove the chimney and place them in your cooker. Never place burning charcoal directly on concrete or cement because the heat will crack it. A wheelbarrow or old metal garbage can lid makes an excellent container for this type of fire.
One of the nice things about charcoal is that you can regulate the heat you will receive from them. Each briquette will produce about 40 degrees of heat. If you are baking bread, for example, and need 400 degrees of heat for your oven, simply use ten briquettes.
To conserve heat and thereby get the maximum heat value from your charcoal you must learn to funnel the heat where you want it rather than letting it dissipate into the air around you. One excellent way to do this is to cook inside a cardboard oven. Take a cardboard box, about the size of an orange crate, and cover it with aluminum foil inside and out. Be sure that the shiny side is visible so that maximum reflectivity is achieved. Turn the box on its side so that the opening is no longer on the top but is on the side. Place some small bricks or other noncombustible material inside upon which you can rest a cookie sheet about two or three inches above the bottom of the box. Place ten burning charcoal briquettes between the bricks (if you need 400 degrees), place the support for your cooking vessels, and then place your bread pans or whatever else you are using on top of the cookie sheet. Prop a foil-covered cardboard lid over the open side, leaving a large crack for air to get in (charcoal needs a lot of air to burn) and bake your bread, cake, cookies, etc. just like you would in your regular oven. Your results will amaze you.
To make your own charcoal, select twigs, limbs, and branches of fruit, nut and other hardwood trees; black walnuts and peach or apricot pits may also be used. Cut wood into desired size, place in a large can which has a few holes punched in it, put a lid on the can and place the can in a hot fire. When the flames from the holes in the can turn yellow-red, remove the can from the fire and allow it to cool. Store the briquettes in a moisture-proof container.
End Document
Burn charcoal only in a well-ventilated area! Did You Know . . . That 1 Bag of Charcoal Briquettes will make it possible for you to cook 1 Meal a Day for a Whole Month?!? That is 13-- 20 lbs bags will be good for 1 year. It is hard to find 20lbs bags anymore so figure on 260 lbs per year.
It's a great storage item to have on hand. Add a couple bottles of starter fluid and you're good to go! (See Randy for this also. He sells it at ACE in Kaysville) He has a different brand, but a good deal at $2.99 a bottle. That was a sale price so ask him about it.
Don't Forget the Matches!
Think outside the Box
Food Storage is all fine and dandy to have in your basement, but what if you actually have to use the stuff you have stored? That is what the last several forums have been about. Using What you Store!!!
Have you ever used . . .
Powdered Eggs
Powdered Milk
Canned Meats
or
Dehydrated Fruits or Vegetables?
These items are some of the easiest food storage items to start using in your everyday meals. I will be including these items in the Bag Meals, so I thought I'd give you a heads up.
Don't Worry . . .
They are easy to use and you won't notice a difference in the taste at all . . . in fact I have a feeling you'll be hooked.
So are you ready?
Do you have all of the ingredients you need? I'm excited for your to see how much easier and cheaper making meals for your family can be. Watch for future posts on Bag Meals!
Food Storage is all fine and dandy to have in your basement, but what if you actually have to use the stuff you have stored? That is what the last several forums have been about. Using What you Store!!!
Have you ever used . . .
Powdered Eggs
Powdered Milk
Canned Meats
or
Dehydrated Fruits or Vegetables?
These items are some of the easiest food storage items to start using in your everyday meals. I will be including these items in the Bag Meals, so I thought I'd give you a heads up.
Don't Worry . . .
They are easy to use and you won't notice a difference in the taste at all . . . in fact I have a feeling you'll be hooked.
So are you ready?
Do you have all of the ingredients you need? I'm excited for your to see how much easier and cheaper making meals for your family can be. Watch for future posts on Bag Meals!
Our last forum was on how to store and use fresh vegetables. Here are some of the highlights of the class.
Storing Vegetables and Fruits at Home
Produce that requires cool-to-cold moist surroundings can be stored outdoors. All outdoor storage has the disadvantage of being unaccessible sometimes and is subject to damage by rodents and other vermin. A drained location is essential to prevent excessive aculimulation of water.
Usually the produce must be insulated for protection from frost and fluctuating temperatures. Insulating materials commonly used are straw, hay, dry leaves, corn stalks, or wood shavings, and some soil. Be sure that the insulating materials used are not contaminated with pesticides.
In-Garden Storage
It is possible to leave some root crops, such as carrots, turnips, and parsnips in the garden where they grew, for part or all of the winter. After the ground begins to freeze in the late fall, cover the root crops with a foot or more of mulch-straw, hay, or dry leaves. Do not place mulch on warm soil because doing so will cause vegetables to decay rapidly. Wait until the ground is cold. Jane said she doesn't recommend this method because rodent eat her vegetable from undernether.
Storing Vegetables and Fruits at Home
Many vegetables and fruits can be stored in pits, cellars or basements without refrigeration during cool fall and cold winter months. Successful storage, however, depends on providing the right temperature, humidity, and ventilation.
Outdoor Storage
Produce can be difficult to dig out of the frozen ground, but it will not be adversely affected until the temperature around the roots drops to 25˚F or less.
Carrots are damaged at about 25˚F, but parsnips can go with somewhat lower temperatures.
If rodents are a problem, it may be wise to store produce in a buried container or an indoor storage area. One gopher can consume a whole row of carrots left in the ground. Parsnips, horseradish, and turnips actually improve in flavor by light freezing. At temperatures between 28˚F and 34˚F, the starch changes to sugar.
Other crops, such as beets, cabbage, Chinese cabbage, cauliflower, celery, endive, or romaine lettuce, kale, leeks, and onions can withstand the early light frosts and can be stored for several weeks under a heavy mulch.
Mounds, Pits
Mounds or pits are a very economical way to store cabbage and root crops, such as carrots, beets, celeriac, kohlrabi, rutabagas, turnips, and winter radishes
Select a well-drained location, and cover the ground with an insulating mulch. Making a shallow excavation (from 6 to 10 inches deep) and placing the produce partly below the surface will ensure better frost protection, but it will also increase the danger of excess water. Place mulch over vegetables. A ditch around the storage perimeter will help remove surface water.
Vegetables keep very well in pits and mounds, but once these storage areas are opened all the produce should be removed. After it’s removed, the produce will keep for 1 or 2 weeks at most. It does not keep as long after removal from storage as will freshly harvested produce. Root crops can be mixed, but should be separated with mulch to prevent cross-transfer of odors. (See “Separating Fruits and Vegetables,” ahead.)
Buried Containers
A 20-gallon trash can, buried in the ground, makes a convenient and economical storage for many kinds of vegetables. Metal cans are more rodent proof than plastic. (See fig. 3.) Several holes should be made in the bottom to facilitate drainage. The container must be free of substances that might give off-flavor to the produce. Never use drums or containers that might have held pesticides or other chemicals.
An insulated box or other container can be buried in a well-drained area. Buried containers are more easily opened and closed than mounds and trenches. This type of storage could be located in a breezeway, shed, or garage for easier access and greater frost protection. However, if you plan to store food in or near a garage, you must more carefully wrap and protect the produce from car fumes, which produce easily picks up.
Buried trash can storage.
Drill several holes in bottom for drainage. Set on rocks for drainage. 1–2’ of insulating material At least 2” above grade Layer vegetables separated by straw.
Buried insulated box storage.
Locate inside a shed, breezeway, or other building for convenience separate compartments for fruits and vegetables. There are many areas in dwellings that naturally provide, or can be adapted to provide a variety of temperature and moisture conditions for storage. These include the attic, unheated rooms, the basement, or cellar.
Assess your own storage possibilities. Use a thermometer to monitor temperatures. Any spot that is sufficiently and evenly cool (32˚F–60˚F) can be adapted for some type of food storage. The relative humidity of these locations will also affect what type of produce can be stored. Even basement window wells can be converted to small storage areas. They can provide cool, moderately moist conditions and can be used to store some types of apples or a variety of root crops. But be sure to separate the produce. Insulate produce with bales of hay or straw.
A pantry or unheated room is useful for short-term storage of potatoes and onions, and long-term storage of spices, vegetable oils, and nuts,
Indoor Storage Area
Low storage temperatures extend the shelf life of dried foods, such as dried beans, herbs, dried fruits and vegetables, and the life of other products, such as coffee, flour, rice, pasta, and cereals.
Use containers with tight-fitting lids to keep humidity low and rodents and insects out. Guard against freezing when storing in unheated areas. A warm storage area, such as an attic, can be a good environment in the fall for drying herbs, beans, walnuts, or hickory nuts.
Basement
A well-ventilated basement with central heating is generally dry and has a temperature range of 50˚F to 60˚F. It may be used for ripening tomatoes and for short-term storage of pumpkins, winter squash, potatoes, sweet potatoes, and onions.
If you will be storing only a small amount of produce, an old refrigerator placed in one corner of the basement may be an excellent investment. It can be used for storing head lettuce, cauliflower or cabbage, or apples.
For long-term storage over winter you will need to partition off a room and insulate it to control temperature and moisture. Build a storage room on the north or east side of the basement, if practicable, and make sure there are no heating ducts or pipes running through it. You will need at least one window for cooling and ventilating the room. Two or more windows are desirable, particularly if the room is divided for separate storage of fruits and vegetables.
A room 4 x 4 x 6 feet is large enough for most households. An area 6 x 7 x 7 feet will hold approximateIy 30 bushels of produce—5 bushels per month for 6 months. An area 8 x 10 x 7 feet will hold approximately 60 bushels of produce—10 bushels per month for 6 months.
To deter rodents, carefully install sheathings or screens on the partition walls so there are no openings at the floor or ceiling. Young mice can crawl through
a quarter-inch hole.
Two reliable thermometers (preferably that record minimum and maximum temperatures) should be used to observe and regulate storage temperatures carefully. Place one thermometer in the coldest location of the basement or cellar, and place the other thermometer outdoors. Regulate storage temperature by opening and closing doors, windows,other openings used as ventilators.
Outdoor temperatures well below 32˚F are necessary to cool storage air to 32˚F and to maintain that temperature. Once cooled to 32˚F, the temperature will rise again if ventilators are closed, even when outdoor temperature is about 25˚F. Close ventilators tightly whenever the outdoor temperature is higher than the storage temperature. Watch indoor and outdoor temperatures
closely. In most regions, daily adjustment of ventilators is usually necessary to maintain desired storage temperatures.
The danger of overventilating during subfreezing weather is that stored products will freeze if you are not careful. For example, in a study made of an insulated storage cellar partly above ground, full ventilation both day and night was necessary to maintain a temperature of 32˚F if outdoor temperatures ranged between 18˚F and 30˚F during the day and dipped to 10˚F at night. If
minimum temperature at night, with normal air movement, was 8˚F for 5 or 6 hours, the storage temperature dropped to 30˚F. During a night of high wind, however, a minimum of 12˚F cooled the cellar to 30˚F.
Keep a pail of water in the storage area in very cold weather; water will freeze before the crops. However, very low temperatures can cause chilling injury to
some produce, like potatoes, and leave them unusable or increase decay.
Maintaining Proper Moisture
The proper humidity level is also very important to long-term storage and maintenance of good quality produce. This is generally measured as relative
humidity, which is the percentage of moisture in the atmosphere at a given time as related to the maximum amount (100%) that could be retained at that temperature.
A humidity level of 95% is almost rainfall and rather difficult to achieve indoors. A relative humidity of 90%–95% is very moist and good for storage of potatoes and other root crops. A relative humidity of 60%–75% is dry and good for storage of pumpkins and other squash. Two ways of maintaining proper humidity are first, to use water to raise the humidity of the storage
air, and secondly, to use ventilated polyethylene bags and box liners. Moisture can be added to storage air by managing a storage area....sprinkling the floor frequently, by placing large pans of water under fresh-air intake vents, by covering the floor with wet materials such as straw or odorless sawdust, or by a combination of these methods. However, these strategies will not prevent shriveling of root crops.
The easiest and most effective way to control moisture loss in root crops and in certain other crops is to put them in polyethylene bags or box liners. Cut many 1/4- to 3/8-inch holes in the sides of the bags or liners to permit ventilation. Tie the bags and fold over the tops of box liners, but do not seal them. Excessive humidity is conducive to mold and decay organisms, if water droplets are allowed to form on the surface of the product. Plastic bags and liners used for moisture retention should always be perforated at regular intervals to permit air circulation and prevent condensation.
Sanitation
At least once a year, remove all containers from the storage area and clean and air them in the sun. The room itself should also be thoroughly aired, cleaned and washed down with a disinfectant, such as diluted chlorine bleach (1cup bleach mixed with 9 cups water), to kill off any molds or bacteria that could lie dormant and ruin future crops.
Vegtables and fruits that are to be stored should be handled carefully to prevent damage. Give special attention to containers that you use for harvesting and
storing. Use containers that have smooth inner surfaces. Protruding wire staples in baskets and hampers are particularly damaging.
Lightweight tub buckets and plastic-coated stave baskets (egg baskets) are good containers for harvesting.
If the soil is sandy, rinse the containers frequently to reduce skin breaks.
Standard apple boxes and lug boxes used for shipping tomatoes, grapes, and nectarines are good storage containers. Slatted crates can be made easily from
wooden melon crates.
Discard all crushed, cut, or decaying vegetables and fruits. If damaged or infected garden products are placed in storage, serious losses from decay are
likely to occur.
See that vegetables and fruits have as little field heat as possible when you put them in storage. Harvest in early morning, or let the crops cool outdoors overnight before storing them.
Harvest during dry weather, not too soon after a rain, and allow the surface of the product to dry, since wet produce is very much more susceptible to disease.
Handle carefully when harvesting and preparing for storage in order to keep bruising to a minimum. Waxing vegetables for home storage is not recommended, although wax has been used for several years on certain fresh vegetables and fruits to improve their sales appearance and to reduce moisture loss.
Separating Fruits and Vegetables
If a large quantity of fruits and vegetables is going to be stored, it is advisable to separate the storage areas or add a central partition in a basement storage area to make two storage areas. Ideally, each area should have its own ventilation system. At least, store fruits and vegetables as far away from each other as possible. Wrapping fruits individually also helps to prevent cross-transfer of odors.
Do not store apples with potatoes or carrots. Ethylene gas produced by apples can cause potatoes to sprout and carrots to become bitter. Potatoes cause apples to take on a musty flavor. Cabbage and turnips can give their odors to celery, pears, and apples. Cabbage, kale, rutabagas, turnips, and winter radishes give off strong odors that could spread through a house, and, therefore, should be stored in outdoor storage areas only.
Apples ripen 5 times as fast at 50˚F than at 32˚F and become overripe rapidly at 70˚F. Pick apples when mature but still hard. Do not mix apples that have glassy spots in flesh (water core, overripe or injured) with good apples.
Length of storage depends on variety. Best for home storage are late maturing varieties: Winesap, Rome Beauty, Northern Spy, Newton.
Do not store apples with cabbage, carrots, turnips, or potatoes; apples will pick up off-flavor or cause changes in the vegetables.
Grapes readily absorb odors from other vegetables and fruits. Store alone away from other produce. Harvest when mature but still hard and very green; ready
to pick when they change from deep green to pale green. Wrap individually in tissue paper and store in cardboard boxes lined with perforated plastic. Store with apples.
If held too long or ripened at too high a temperature, they will break down and become rotten on the inside.
Preparation
After first frost, pull with root attached. Store in outdoor storage areas (pits,
garbage cans, cellars) with soil around roots. Do not store in basement
because cabbage odor will spread through house. Do not store with celery,
ndive, apples, or pears, which pick up cabbage flavor. Cut off root. Leave protective outer leaves. Wrap and pack with loose moist sand in outdoor storage area, because it gives off strong odors. Or store in refrigerator in the basement.
Mulch in the garden until hard frost. Pull with root ball attached. Store upright close together in moist sand or soil. Tie leaves of endive together to help blanching. Do not store with cabbage. Store kale only in outdoor storage area, because it gives off odors. All others can be stored in a storage room.
All can be stored in garden by mulching with 1 foot of hay or straw if there
are no rodents. Parsnips, salsify and horseradish can withstand freezing but are injured by alternate freezing and thawing. Dig as needed.
Store rutabagas, turnips, and winter radishes only in outdoor storage areas
because they give off odors. Other root vegetables can be stored in basement
storage room. Dig when soil is dry. Cut plant tops 1/2 inch above crown. Store in layers of moist sand, peat, or sphagnum moss or in polyethylene bags with about four 1/4-inch holes. Storage at 45˚F causes them to sprout new tops and become woody. Store in the lowest areas of basement storage area (usually coldest, moistest).
Onions must be mature and dry to keep well. Ones with thick necks and those grown from sets are hard to keep. Before storing, spread on newspapers out of sunlight in a well-ventilated place to cure for 2–3 weeks or until skins are papery and roots completely shriveled and dry. Store in a cool, dry, well-ventilated place, such as an attic, or in an unheated room in well-ventilated containers like mesh bags.
Dry by threading mature fruit onto a string and hang in a well-ventilated place. Peppers should not touch each other.
Storing Vegetables and Fruits at Home
Produce that requires cool-to-cold moist surroundings can be stored outdoors. All outdoor storage has the disadvantage of being unaccessible sometimes and is subject to damage by rodents and other vermin. A drained location is essential to prevent excessive aculimulation of water.
Usually the produce must be insulated for protection from frost and fluctuating temperatures. Insulating materials commonly used are straw, hay, dry leaves, corn stalks, or wood shavings, and some soil. Be sure that the insulating materials used are not contaminated with pesticides.
In-Garden Storage
It is possible to leave some root crops, such as carrots, turnips, and parsnips in the garden where they grew, for part or all of the winter. After the ground begins to freeze in the late fall, cover the root crops with a foot or more of mulch-straw, hay, or dry leaves. Do not place mulch on warm soil because doing so will cause vegetables to decay rapidly. Wait until the ground is cold. Jane said she doesn't recommend this method because rodent eat her vegetable from undernether.
Storing Vegetables and Fruits at Home
Many vegetables and fruits can be stored in pits, cellars or basements without refrigeration during cool fall and cold winter months. Successful storage, however, depends on providing the right temperature, humidity, and ventilation.
Outdoor Storage
Produce can be difficult to dig out of the frozen ground, but it will not be adversely affected until the temperature around the roots drops to 25˚F or less.
Carrots are damaged at about 25˚F, but parsnips can go with somewhat lower temperatures.
If rodents are a problem, it may be wise to store produce in a buried container or an indoor storage area. One gopher can consume a whole row of carrots left in the ground. Parsnips, horseradish, and turnips actually improve in flavor by light freezing. At temperatures between 28˚F and 34˚F, the starch changes to sugar.
Other crops, such as beets, cabbage, Chinese cabbage, cauliflower, celery, endive, or romaine lettuce, kale, leeks, and onions can withstand the early light frosts and can be stored for several weeks under a heavy mulch.
Mounds, Pits
Mounds or pits are a very economical way to store cabbage and root crops, such as carrots, beets, celeriac, kohlrabi, rutabagas, turnips, and winter radishes
Select a well-drained location, and cover the ground with an insulating mulch. Making a shallow excavation (from 6 to 10 inches deep) and placing the produce partly below the surface will ensure better frost protection, but it will also increase the danger of excess water. Place mulch over vegetables. A ditch around the storage perimeter will help remove surface water.
Vegetables keep very well in pits and mounds, but once these storage areas are opened all the produce should be removed. After it’s removed, the produce will keep for 1 or 2 weeks at most. It does not keep as long after removal from storage as will freshly harvested produce. Root crops can be mixed, but should be separated with mulch to prevent cross-transfer of odors. (See “Separating Fruits and Vegetables,” ahead.)
Buried Containers
A 20-gallon trash can, buried in the ground, makes a convenient and economical storage for many kinds of vegetables. Metal cans are more rodent proof than plastic. (See fig. 3.) Several holes should be made in the bottom to facilitate drainage. The container must be free of substances that might give off-flavor to the produce. Never use drums or containers that might have held pesticides or other chemicals.
An insulated box or other container can be buried in a well-drained area. Buried containers are more easily opened and closed than mounds and trenches. This type of storage could be located in a breezeway, shed, or garage for easier access and greater frost protection. However, if you plan to store food in or near a garage, you must more carefully wrap and protect the produce from car fumes, which produce easily picks up.
Buried trash can storage.
Drill several holes in bottom for drainage. Set on rocks for drainage. 1–2’ of insulating material At least 2” above grade Layer vegetables separated by straw.
Buried insulated box storage.
Locate inside a shed, breezeway, or other building for convenience separate compartments for fruits and vegetables. There are many areas in dwellings that naturally provide, or can be adapted to provide a variety of temperature and moisture conditions for storage. These include the attic, unheated rooms, the basement, or cellar.
Assess your own storage possibilities. Use a thermometer to monitor temperatures. Any spot that is sufficiently and evenly cool (32˚F–60˚F) can be adapted for some type of food storage. The relative humidity of these locations will also affect what type of produce can be stored. Even basement window wells can be converted to small storage areas. They can provide cool, moderately moist conditions and can be used to store some types of apples or a variety of root crops. But be sure to separate the produce. Insulate produce with bales of hay or straw.
A pantry or unheated room is useful for short-term storage of potatoes and onions, and long-term storage of spices, vegetable oils, and nuts,
Indoor Storage Area
Low storage temperatures extend the shelf life of dried foods, such as dried beans, herbs, dried fruits and vegetables, and the life of other products, such as coffee, flour, rice, pasta, and cereals.
Use containers with tight-fitting lids to keep humidity low and rodents and insects out. Guard against freezing when storing in unheated areas. A warm storage area, such as an attic, can be a good environment in the fall for drying herbs, beans, walnuts, or hickory nuts.
Basement
A well-ventilated basement with central heating is generally dry and has a temperature range of 50˚F to 60˚F. It may be used for ripening tomatoes and for short-term storage of pumpkins, winter squash, potatoes, sweet potatoes, and onions.
If you will be storing only a small amount of produce, an old refrigerator placed in one corner of the basement may be an excellent investment. It can be used for storing head lettuce, cauliflower or cabbage, or apples.
For long-term storage over winter you will need to partition off a room and insulate it to control temperature and moisture. Build a storage room on the north or east side of the basement, if practicable, and make sure there are no heating ducts or pipes running through it. You will need at least one window for cooling and ventilating the room. Two or more windows are desirable, particularly if the room is divided for separate storage of fruits and vegetables.
A room 4 x 4 x 6 feet is large enough for most households. An area 6 x 7 x 7 feet will hold approximateIy 30 bushels of produce—5 bushels per month for 6 months. An area 8 x 10 x 7 feet will hold approximately 60 bushels of produce—10 bushels per month for 6 months.
To deter rodents, carefully install sheathings or screens on the partition walls so there are no openings at the floor or ceiling. Young mice can crawl through
a quarter-inch hole.
Two reliable thermometers (preferably that record minimum and maximum temperatures) should be used to observe and regulate storage temperatures carefully. Place one thermometer in the coldest location of the basement or cellar, and place the other thermometer outdoors. Regulate storage temperature by opening and closing doors, windows,other openings used as ventilators.
Outdoor temperatures well below 32˚F are necessary to cool storage air to 32˚F and to maintain that temperature. Once cooled to 32˚F, the temperature will rise again if ventilators are closed, even when outdoor temperature is about 25˚F. Close ventilators tightly whenever the outdoor temperature is higher than the storage temperature. Watch indoor and outdoor temperatures
closely. In most regions, daily adjustment of ventilators is usually necessary to maintain desired storage temperatures.
The danger of overventilating during subfreezing weather is that stored products will freeze if you are not careful. For example, in a study made of an insulated storage cellar partly above ground, full ventilation both day and night was necessary to maintain a temperature of 32˚F if outdoor temperatures ranged between 18˚F and 30˚F during the day and dipped to 10˚F at night. If
minimum temperature at night, with normal air movement, was 8˚F for 5 or 6 hours, the storage temperature dropped to 30˚F. During a night of high wind, however, a minimum of 12˚F cooled the cellar to 30˚F.
Keep a pail of water in the storage area in very cold weather; water will freeze before the crops. However, very low temperatures can cause chilling injury to
some produce, like potatoes, and leave them unusable or increase decay.
Maintaining Proper Moisture
The proper humidity level is also very important to long-term storage and maintenance of good quality produce. This is generally measured as relative
humidity, which is the percentage of moisture in the atmosphere at a given time as related to the maximum amount (100%) that could be retained at that temperature.
A humidity level of 95% is almost rainfall and rather difficult to achieve indoors. A relative humidity of 90%–95% is very moist and good for storage of potatoes and other root crops. A relative humidity of 60%–75% is dry and good for storage of pumpkins and other squash. Two ways of maintaining proper humidity are first, to use water to raise the humidity of the storage
air, and secondly, to use ventilated polyethylene bags and box liners. Moisture can be added to storage air by managing a storage area....sprinkling the floor frequently, by placing large pans of water under fresh-air intake vents, by covering the floor with wet materials such as straw or odorless sawdust, or by a combination of these methods. However, these strategies will not prevent shriveling of root crops.
The easiest and most effective way to control moisture loss in root crops and in certain other crops is to put them in polyethylene bags or box liners. Cut many 1/4- to 3/8-inch holes in the sides of the bags or liners to permit ventilation. Tie the bags and fold over the tops of box liners, but do not seal them. Excessive humidity is conducive to mold and decay organisms, if water droplets are allowed to form on the surface of the product. Plastic bags and liners used for moisture retention should always be perforated at regular intervals to permit air circulation and prevent condensation.
Sanitation
At least once a year, remove all containers from the storage area and clean and air them in the sun. The room itself should also be thoroughly aired, cleaned and washed down with a disinfectant, such as diluted chlorine bleach (1cup bleach mixed with 9 cups water), to kill off any molds or bacteria that could lie dormant and ruin future crops.
Vegtables and fruits that are to be stored should be handled carefully to prevent damage. Give special attention to containers that you use for harvesting and
storing. Use containers that have smooth inner surfaces. Protruding wire staples in baskets and hampers are particularly damaging.
Lightweight tub buckets and plastic-coated stave baskets (egg baskets) are good containers for harvesting.
If the soil is sandy, rinse the containers frequently to reduce skin breaks.
Standard apple boxes and lug boxes used for shipping tomatoes, grapes, and nectarines are good storage containers. Slatted crates can be made easily from
wooden melon crates.
Discard all crushed, cut, or decaying vegetables and fruits. If damaged or infected garden products are placed in storage, serious losses from decay are
likely to occur.
See that vegetables and fruits have as little field heat as possible when you put them in storage. Harvest in early morning, or let the crops cool outdoors overnight before storing them.
Harvest during dry weather, not too soon after a rain, and allow the surface of the product to dry, since wet produce is very much more susceptible to disease.
Handle carefully when harvesting and preparing for storage in order to keep bruising to a minimum. Waxing vegetables for home storage is not recommended, although wax has been used for several years on certain fresh vegetables and fruits to improve their sales appearance and to reduce moisture loss.
Separating Fruits and Vegetables
If a large quantity of fruits and vegetables is going to be stored, it is advisable to separate the storage areas or add a central partition in a basement storage area to make two storage areas. Ideally, each area should have its own ventilation system. At least, store fruits and vegetables as far away from each other as possible. Wrapping fruits individually also helps to prevent cross-transfer of odors.
Do not store apples with potatoes or carrots. Ethylene gas produced by apples can cause potatoes to sprout and carrots to become bitter. Potatoes cause apples to take on a musty flavor. Cabbage and turnips can give their odors to celery, pears, and apples. Cabbage, kale, rutabagas, turnips, and winter radishes give off strong odors that could spread through a house, and, therefore, should be stored in outdoor storage areas only.
Apples ripen 5 times as fast at 50˚F than at 32˚F and become overripe rapidly at 70˚F. Pick apples when mature but still hard. Do not mix apples that have glassy spots in flesh (water core, overripe or injured) with good apples.
Length of storage depends on variety. Best for home storage are late maturing varieties: Winesap, Rome Beauty, Northern Spy, Newton.
Do not store apples with cabbage, carrots, turnips, or potatoes; apples will pick up off-flavor or cause changes in the vegetables.
Grapes readily absorb odors from other vegetables and fruits. Store alone away from other produce. Harvest when mature but still hard and very green; ready
to pick when they change from deep green to pale green. Wrap individually in tissue paper and store in cardboard boxes lined with perforated plastic. Store with apples.
If held too long or ripened at too high a temperature, they will break down and become rotten on the inside.
Preparation
After first frost, pull with root attached. Store in outdoor storage areas (pits,
garbage cans, cellars) with soil around roots. Do not store in basement
because cabbage odor will spread through house. Do not store with celery,
ndive, apples, or pears, which pick up cabbage flavor. Cut off root. Leave protective outer leaves. Wrap and pack with loose moist sand in outdoor storage area, because it gives off strong odors. Or store in refrigerator in the basement.
Mulch in the garden until hard frost. Pull with root ball attached. Store upright close together in moist sand or soil. Tie leaves of endive together to help blanching. Do not store with cabbage. Store kale only in outdoor storage area, because it gives off odors. All others can be stored in a storage room.
All can be stored in garden by mulching with 1 foot of hay or straw if there
are no rodents. Parsnips, salsify and horseradish can withstand freezing but are injured by alternate freezing and thawing. Dig as needed.
Store rutabagas, turnips, and winter radishes only in outdoor storage areas
because they give off odors. Other root vegetables can be stored in basement
storage room. Dig when soil is dry. Cut plant tops 1/2 inch above crown. Store in layers of moist sand, peat, or sphagnum moss or in polyethylene bags with about four 1/4-inch holes. Storage at 45˚F causes them to sprout new tops and become woody. Store in the lowest areas of basement storage area (usually coldest, moistest).
Onions must be mature and dry to keep well. Ones with thick necks and those grown from sets are hard to keep. Before storing, spread on newspapers out of sunlight in a well-ventilated place to cure for 2–3 weeks or until skins are papery and roots completely shriveled and dry. Store in a cool, dry, well-ventilated place, such as an attic, or in an unheated room in well-ventilated containers like mesh bags.
Dry by threading mature fruit onto a string and hang in a well-ventilated place. Peppers should not touch each other.
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